Jewelry 101: Diamonds



  Cut
The cut of a diamond refers to its symmetry and proportions. Of the 4C's, the cut is the only aspect directly influenced by man. The other three are dictated by nature.

Quite often the cut of a diamond is confused with its shape. Diamonds are cut into various shapes depending upon the original form of the uncut diamond, which is referred to as "rough." Whatever the shape, a well-cut diamond is better able to reflect light.

A diamond's ability to reflect light determines its display of fire and brilliance. Diamonds are usually cut with 58 facets, or separate flat surfaces. These facets follow a mathematical formula and are placed at precise angles in relation to each other. This relationship is designed to maximize the amount of light reflected through the diamond and to increase its beauty.


Clarity
Diamonds have small imperfections in them known as inclusions; the fewer inclusions, the more valuable the stone. Clarity is graded by using a very precise and complex method of evaluating the size, location, and visibility of inclusions. Almost all diamonds contain very tiny natural birthmarks known as inclusions. In addition to internal inclusions, surface irregularities are referred to as blemishes. These two categories of imperfections-inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external)-make up clarity.

Obviously the fewer the imperfections, the rarer and more valuable the diamond. Many inclusions are not discernible to the naked eye and require magnification to become apparent. A clarity rating of SI2 represents the point at which inclusions are technically not apparent to the average naked eye.

Contrary to popular belief, higher clarity does not always mean more beautiful. If the inclusions are not visible to the naked eye, a higher clarity does not really improve the appearance of a diamond but rather the rarity and price. A higher clarity is more desirable and valuable, but knowing that you have selected the right clarity for the right reasons is most important.


Color
The best color is no color. Diamonds allow light to be reflected and dispersed as a rainbow of color. This light dispersion, or color flash, has no effect on the technical grading of color. The absolute finest colorless stone carries a D rating, descending through each letter of the alphabet to Z, designating a diamond of light yellow, brown, or gray. Color in diamonds result from traces of other elements which mix with carbon during the diamond's formation. As the body color becomes more intense, the grade for color descends the scale. These gradations are so minute and precise that discerning a single grade can be extremely difficult. When directly comparing diamonds for color, most consumers are unable to detect a difference unless they are at least two or three color grades apart and many consumers may not see color until a grade of K.


Carat Weight
This is the size of the stone and the simplest factor used to determine the value of a diamond. Most people relate carat weight to size. The larger the diamond the more it weighs. The weight of a diamond is expressed in carats. One carat is divided into 100 points so a diamond weighing one half of a carat can also be described as weighing 50 points or 0.50 carats. As diamonds increase in weight, their price per carat usually increases geometrically, not arithmetically. Therefore, a two carat diamond will usually be more than double the price of a one carat diamond of the same quality.